Simulation of Significant Wave Height Climatology using WaveWatch III

要旨

In recent decades, the extreme wave height has become more frequent. High spatial resolution of wave model is inevitable to investigate the impact of monsoon and generate the wave atlas. The significant wave height (SWH) resulting from model estimation has a high correlation with the altimeter data (0.77-0.94), with the highest correlation in Northern Papua, and the lowest in Sulawesi Sea. The maximum SWH in Java Sea is approximately 3-3.5m, occuring in January and February. Generally, the maximum SWH in Southern Java Sea is higher than the maximum wave height in the southern coast of Kalimantan. This tends to increase the flood risk in the north coast of Java, because it coincides with the peak of wet season. When reaching 6m it can cause for example, decreasing fisheries production and preventing commodity flows that use marine transportations.